I have had this cashmere Prada sweater for a while now. I got it, because someone else washed it too hot and it felted. It didn’t really fit anybody comfortably in the family (I did fit in it, but it was too short for my taste and a bit too figure hugging to be comfortable).
So I had it laying around. I petted it now and again, only to put it back in the sewing box. I was always worried, I would screw it up somehow and it is such a soft fabric after all. I wanted this to work out.
A few weeks ago, I finally got up and told myself to cut it already. Yes, it WAS an expensive sweater at one point, however,
- I did not pay anything for it and
- it isn’t worth a penny to anyone in the shape it is in now.
I determined that I wanted the sweater not necessarily longer, as I wanted it to be a layer piece, but it had to be wider, in order to be able to get anything underneath. So a slit must be made and material inserted. I finally settled on a pleat in the back. Since the sweater was nice material, I figured I had to get a bit of nice fabric for the pleat as well and settled on linen. So I got out my form and my scissors and some linen shorts, with a skirt flap (who wears these things… seriously?) and got to work. (I swear, I made photos for a tutorial, but they got lost somehow. I have no idea how, or why…)
All seams in this episode are hand sewn.
I took a seam ripper to the “skirt” part of the shorts/skirt, since that was the bit I wanted to use for the pleat. I cut it a bit smaller, but I kept the top waist band with the button holes, since it was a finished seam that I didn’t have to make lol. I wanted that to become the new bottom edge of the pleat. I also liked the way the button holes looked and wanted to keep them as an added touch.
I measured the sweater’s back and found the middle and figured out how high I wanted the slit to go. I like pleats to go all the way to the arm hole. However, on this sweater I came in just about an inch short of arm hole height. The arms are rather fitted, due to the felting, and I wanted to keep them that way. The sleeves are not uncomfortable to wear, but having a pleat go too far up the back does not look good.
I made a chalk line up the back, then made a seam on either side of the chalk line (just to be sure it would not unravel the sweater when I cut), the same way one would do if one wanted to steek a handknitted sweater. Yes, it was felted, but better save than sorry.
After I made the seams into the sweater, I took my scissors and cut along the chalk line up to my end point. Now all I had to do, was to put in the pleat fabric and presto! I did all the stitching on this by hand. I don’t have pictures of the sewing. I am so sorry. But basically the pleat went in this way:
Pin either side of the pleat rectangle to the cut edges of the pullover then sew up those edges. This will leave you with a hole up on top, where the end of the cut slit is. now you lay down your pleat the way you want it, give it a good heat set (iron it) and then pin it to the pullover. Now sew up the top. I have done pleats before, so I didn’t have to think about it at all, but if you haven’t (and my amazing description of things just helps to confuse you), here is a link to a tutorial. :)
I also sewed on a few buttons, just for looks, really. They don’t to anything. (you can really see the button holes, where the skirt part buttoned over the shorts as well, in this photo.)
To make the front a bit more interesting, I used a little vintage handkerchief as a collar. I just folded it in half, with the embroidery up front in the center and pinned it to the collar, then sewed it down.
Presto! New cute shirt.
More sewing adventures are sure to come, as I am going to try and work towards a completely hand sewn wardrobe next year, among other things.